Big City Tales

Carnegie Museums Bring the World to Pittsburgh

October 3, 2018
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After making a name for himself as a shrewd (and VERY rich!) businessman in the late 1800’s, Andrew Carnegie turned his attention from building corporate empires to championing societal causes. Carnegie spent the last 18 years of his life (from 1901 to 1919) passionately engaged in the pursuit of philanthropic efforts that included establishing libraries, universities and cultural institutions around the world, many in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, where Carnegie Steel Company was based. The Carnegie Museums were legacy gifts to the citizens of Pittsburgh, the vast majority whom Carnegie knew first-hand would never have the means to experience life outside of the United States, so he endeavored to bring the world to them.

Museum of Art

Located in the historic Oakland district, the Carnegie Museum of Art was the first of its kind in the United States to be focused primarily on exhibiting contemporary works. Carnegie’s vision was to build a modern art collection consisting of the “Old Masters of tomorrow” who were the emerging artists of the day such as Vincent van Gogh, Claude Monet, Thomas Eakins, Henri Matisse, Winslow Homer and others. Today, the museum’s permanent collection consists of some 35,000 works including paintings, decorative arts, sculptures and other installations.

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Plaster Casts

Along with showcasing modern works, Carnegie was keen to expose Pittsburghers to some of the world’s greatest architectural wonders from ancient, classical and medieval times. No easy task, but his quest was made easier in that the making of large scale plaster casts was all the rage during the late Victorian era, including Egyptian, Near Eastern, Greek and Roman sculptures; and building facades such as the Porch of the Maidens and the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus.

The Hall of Sculptures

The balcony area leading into the Hall of Sculptures features numerous full scale plaster cast sculptures, as well as a variety of decorative arts dated between the 18th and 20th centuries. The interior of the hall is based on the Parthenon’s inner sanctum complete with towering columns, a carved frieze and high ceilings.

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Hall of Architecture

The museum’s collection of architectural plaster casts is the largest in the United States, and third largest in the world. Of the 140 pieces, two of the grandest are the West Portal of Saint-Gilles-du-Gard, a Benedictine abbey in France that was built in the Provencal Romanesque style; and the Northern Portal of the Bordeaux Cathedral that features Romanesque and Gothic design elements. In addition to building facades, the Hall of Architecture also contains elaborately carved sarcophagi and Ancient Greek and Roman statues.

Museum of Natural History 

While Carnegie and his team of experts were tending to the acquisition of paintings and sculptures for the new art museum between 1895-1898, archaeologists in the western United States were making some major discoveries of prehistoric dinosaur bones.

Upon hearing the news, Carnegie saw a potential opportunity to now also bring the world of natural history to Pittsburgh. He sent a hand-picked team of scientists to undertake digs in Wyoming where they were successful in finding many fossils, including one named in honor of Carnegie’s patronage, Diplodocus carnegii, that is today nicknamed “Dippy” and is proudly displayed in its natural habitat.

Dinosaur Hall

Dinosaur Hall was constructed in the early 1900s to showcase Dippy and the other finds from the Mesozoic Era such as Apatosaurus louisaeTyrannosaurus rex and Triceratops, among dozens of other original fossils.

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Art + Natural History + Science + Warhol = Lasting Legacy

It’s been over 120 years since Andrew Carnegie first hatched his plan to bring the world to Pittsburgh. Today, the Carnegie Museums include the Carnegie Science Center and the Andy Warhol Museum, and both the Museum of Art and Museum of Natural History have undergone major upgrades and expansions in recent years to accommodate new exhibits and galleries. Without a doubt, Carnegie created a lasting legacy not only for Pittsburghers but also for legions of out-of-town and country visitors who annually descend on the city to soak up its unique heritage.

 

 

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Heinz History Center Celebrates More Than Ketchup

August 9, 2018
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If the larger-than-life ketchup bottle perched on the roof of the Heinz History Center in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania has you thinking this building only pays homage to the popular condiment, think again. The story of the Heinz family is actually just one small part of what lies inside this six-floor structure, and ketchup is just one of many discoveries and innovations attributed to residents of Pittsburgh and Western Pennsylvania. This region of the United States is well known for its prolific contributions to the realm of “World’s First” and the Heinz History Center accordingly celebrates more than ketchup in its educational exhibits.

The Warriors

From 1754 to 1763 much of the occupied parts of North America were battlegrounds where British, French and Native American forces were engaged in what is considered to be the world’s first global conflict, the Seven Years’ War. At the time, the population of the British American colonies vastly outnumbered the French colonies in New France, but the French had significant backing from a number of native tribes. Together, the French and their allies initially proved to be formidable foes for the likes of a young George Washington, who was just embarking on his military career as Commander of the Virginia Regiment, but the British eventually prevailed and substantially increased the breadth of their empire on North American soil. One of the most prized regions that the British and French fought over was the Forks of Ohio located at the confluence of the Allegheny and Monongahela rivers, which is now Point State Park in downtown Pittsburgh. The Clash of Empires exhibit offers life-like models, detailed maps and riveting accounts of warfare from the perspectives of all parties involved.

The Explorers

In the early 1800s, the western frontier of the United States was a mystery waiting to be revealed. President Thomas Jefferson was particularly keen to lay claim to the territory before Britain, France or Spain set their sights on it, so he commissioned the Corps of Discovery Expedition to be jointly led by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark. The expedition was the first of its kind to explore the American West and Pittsburgh is where the epic journey began when Lewis set sail from Mon Wharf at the headwaters of the Ohio River to meet up with Clark in St. Louis. Along with mapping the vast territory, Lewis and Clark were tasked with finding a reliable water route to the Pacific Ocean, making contact/establishing trade with Native Americans, and documenting the wealth of resources they encountered along the way. To mark the 200th anniversary of the expedition, the well known Rooney family of Pittsburgh retraced the famed western adventure and the Rediscovering Lewis & Clark exhibit shares the highlights of their journey.

The Entrepreneurs

Established in 1869, the H.J. Heinz Company started small with the pickling of vegetables grown in the Heinz family garden. The first Heinz product to be sold en masse was actually horseradish but by the 1900s the company had expanded significantly. Thanks to its new slogan “57 varieties,” the company now had a clever marketing tool to brand its ever-growing stable of products such as pickles, tomato ketchup, baked beans, chutney, relish, mustard and other processed foods. Heinz was adamant about using only high quality ingredients and developing innovative packaging, including the classic octagon-shaped ketchup bottle that he patented in 1890. The Heinz exhibit chronicles the company’s evolution into a global powerhouse and features an 11-foot ketchup bottle display comprised of over 400 individual bottles, displays of pickle pins and historical product packaging, as well as other family memorabilia.

Gulf Oil

Along with being a major food processing hub in the early 1900s, Pittsburgh was the birthplace of Gulf Oil that was founded and run by the Mellon family until it was sold in the 1980s to Standard Oil. The first gas station in the United States was built by Gulf Refining Company in Pittsburgh and the pumps started flowing in 1913. Until 1970 the company’s Art Deco-styled head office was the tallest building in the city and it remains one of Pittsburgh’s downtown landmarks with its distinctive step-pyramid structure at the top of the 44-story skyscraper. The Special Collections gallery features old gas pumps, hard hats, signs and other marketing materials.

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The Innovators

Pittsburgh is known as a center of innovation. The exhibit Pittsburgh: A Tradition of Innovation showcases Western Pennsylvania’s significant contributions to the world. Be it Westinghouse Electric’s invention of alternating current, Dr. Jonas Salk’s discovery of the polio vaccine, or the creation of the smiley emoticon at Carnegie Mellon University there are dozens of shining examples of local innovations. Here are a few more:

  • Reporter Nellie Bly circled the globe in 72 days.
  • A Pittsburgh artist created the We Can Do It! poster that subsequently became known as Rosie the Riveter.
  • The Jeep was developed by the American Bantam Company based in Butler, PA.
  • The Pennsylvania Turnpike was America’s first “super highway” and was a model for the development of other interstate highways across the country.

The Sports Heroes

Pittsburgh is a sports town through and through and the city has laid claim to dozens of league championships in football, hockey and baseball. The Western Pennsylvania Sports Museum located on two floors in the Heinz History Center presents some of the city’s  greatest sporting moments.

Football

As the first National Football League franchise to win six Super Bowl championships, the Pittsburgh Steelers have enjoyed tremendous success over the decades. The team’s winning ways inspired the city’s other professional franchises leading to Pittsburgh earning the designation of City of Champions.

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Hockey

In 2017, the Pittsburgh Penguins celebrated 50 years in the National Hockey League capped off with their fifth Stanley Cup win. Back in the 1990s, the team was led by Captain Mario Lemieux, The Magnificent One, who was an integral part of the franchise’s back-to-back league championships in 1991 and 1992. Today, Lemieux is a co-owner and is the only man to have his name on the Stanley Cup as both a player and an owner. 

Baseball

Along with the distinction of being the first National League participant in the first World Series in Major League Baseball, the Pittsburgh Pirates franchise is noteworthy for winning five World Series championships and hosting the first World Series night game back in 1971. While the team has had many all-star players, Roberto Clemente was the first Latin American and Caribbean player to help win a World Series as a starter, to receive a National League MVP Award, to receive the World Series MVP Award, and to be enshrined into the National Baseball Hall of Fame. Clemente was also known for his charitable work in the off-season and tragically died in a plane crash en route to delivering aid to earthquake victims in 1972.

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The Educators

When the first community-sponsored educational television station in the United States (WQED) began broadcasting in 1954, little did producers know that it would launch the career of Fred Rogers, aka Mister Rogers, and introduce the world to the familiar refrain of “Won’t you be my neighbor?” Mister Rogers’ Neighborhood first aired in 1968 and would become a children’s television show classic. The Special Collections gallery contains many of the show’s artifacts, as well as some 3,000 other items representing the ethnic diversity of Western Pennsylvania, its various business entities and talented local artisans.

The Firsts

From the first steamboat to sail westward rivers from Pittsburgh to New Orleans to the first city in the United States to host the world’s largest rubber duck, A History of Firsts created by local artist Ron Magnes is a linear representation of some of Pittsburgh’s most notable firsts in the realms of technology, the arts, business, sports, education, medicine, and entertainment. The world as we know it has been changed for the better as a result of many of these accomplishments that are explored in depth and presented with tremendous pride in the Heinz History Center.

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The Pride of Pittsburgh

January 11, 2018
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Even with one of its nicknames being “Steel City,” Pittsburgh is a city that has long intrigued me. True, some historical references conjure up images of thick black plumes of smoke hovering over dreary factory buildings in a landscape devoid of green spaces. But that was then and this is now. The industrial town of old has definitely made way for a new cosmopolitan vibe that is attracting curious visitors like me in droves. Indeed, in recent years the city has received notable accolades for its livability, culture, foodie scene and economic prosperity.

Yes, “The ‘Burgh” or “City of Bridges” as the city is also referred to today is chock-full of amazing architecture, museums, parks, educational institutions, restaurants, and sports & entertainment options on par with New York City, Los Angeles, Chicago and other major US cities. Whichever nickname you prefer, each truly represents the best of Pittsburgh’s past and present.

Here is a sampling of the Pride of Pittsburgh:

A “Top 10” City View

As the locals have long been aware, Pittsburgh has a lot of attractions to be proud of. The view of downtown from the Mt. Washington district at the top of the Duquesne Incline (pictured below) is one of the city’s shining gems. This vantage point also just happens to rank in Fodor’s Travel “10 Most Incredible Views of America’s Cities” and shows off many of the city’s bridges, skyscrapers and the fountain at Point State Park, a national historic landmark.
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When dusk makes way to mid-evening and late night, the city lights begin to twinkle and reflect off of the river waters making for a glorious sight that photographers of all levels clamor to capture. Even my humble 35mm point and shoot digital camera produced a decent shot. Having enjoyed a lovely panoramic nighttime view of downtown, I was looking forward to getting a closer look in the daylight of Pittsburgh’s iconic buildings.

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Architecture

It may not be the tallest building in Pittsburgh, but PPG Place certainly caught my eye as it sparkled against the backdrop of a crystal blue sky.  The complex towers above most of the city’s skyline and its series of buildings stretch over three city blocks. PPG Place is noteworthy for its matching glass design consisting of six buildings, 231 spires, and 19,750 pieces of glass. At ground level, a large plaza paved in a mosaic of red, grey and black granite provides a gathering place for various seasonal activities such as an outdoor skating rink during the winter months and a fountain feature from spring until fall. For those who prefer an indoor refuge, the Wintergarden is a glass-enclosed garden oasis located in the main tower that is open year-round.

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PPG Place is also located next to the Market Square district where restaurants, cafes and retailers cater to tourists, as well as the regular Monday to Friday downtown business crowd. One of the popular casual dining haunts in Market Square is Primanti Brothers, known for their colossal “Almost Famous” sandwiches of grilled meat, an Italian dressing-based coleslaw, tomato slices, and french fries piled high between two pieces of thick Italian bread. Believe me, you won’t need to eat for the rest of the day, and you’ll probably want to head to one of the city’s nearby world-class museums to walk off some calories!

Museums

From history to art, to soldiers and sailors, or the celebration of the bicycle, Pittsburgh’s wide variety of museum options offers something for everyone’s taste and interests. 

Heinz History Center

Located in the Strip District, which is a one-half square mile shopping area northeast of downtown, the Heinz History Center is Pennsylvania’s largest history museum and is an affiliate of the Smithsonian Institution. The center showcases Pittsburgh’s past and highlights its tradition of innovation, notably that Pittsburgh is known as a city of “firsts” such as the first Big Mac hamburger at McDonald’s, the first retractable roof, the first drive-in gas station, the first ferris wheel, etc. As depicted in its many permanent and rotating exhibitions, the city is the headquarters of the Heinz food empire, is where famed explorers Lewis & Clark launched their epic trek from Pittsburgh to the Pacific from, and is where the beloved children’s show, “Mister Rogers Neighborhood” was filmed at the local public broadcasting station. A unique feature of touring the museum is that you can start in the stairwell and view highlights of the city’s 250-year history on the walls and steps as you wind your way to the top floor and then work your way down. I highly recommend this approach before taking in the full exhibits; the incline is not too steep and the museum is only six floors so you don’t have to be in tip-top shape.

Andy Warhol Museum

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Before he took New York City and the entire world by storm with his abstract art (most notably Campbell’s soup cans and images of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis), Andy Warhol was a fresh-faced kid from Pittsburgh. Located in the city’s North Shore district, the Andy Warhol Museum holds the largest collection of Warhol’s artworks and archival materials, and is the largest single artist museum in North America.

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I found it interesting to see Warhol’s development as an artist before and after his fixation with Campbell’s soup cans, and late in his career when he started using computer generated design and color techniques. It also surprised me to learn that he was a pack rat and amassed quite a collection of knickknacks.

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Carnegie Museum of Art and Natural History Museum 

Founded in 1895 by renowned businessman Andrew Carnegie, the Carnegie Museum of Art is considered to be the first museum of modern art in the United States. With paintings ranging from Monet to Whistler, the museum’s impressive collection also features one of the largest collection of plaster casts of architectural masterpieces in the world that are housed in the massive Hall of Architecture wing. The statues and building facades may be plaster, but they certainly looked authentic which speaks to the high quality of the replication process. The Porch of the Maidens installation captured my attention along with an elaborate burial shrine.

The Natural History Museum is noted for having one of the finest collections of dinosaur skeletons in the world, but has many other exhibits covering subject matter such as minerals and gems, Ancient Egypt, life in the Arctic, and geology. The museum’s high vaulted ceilings are the perfect construction to show off the towering heights of long extinct species.

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Educational Institutions

Situated in the heart of the University of Pittsburgh campus, the Cathedral of Learning stands 535 feet tall and contains 42 floors.

Aside from its magnificent Late Gothic Revival exterior, the interior features the infamous Nationality Rooms that are located on the first and third floors. The rooms are representative of various cultural and ethnic groups that have settled in the Pittsburgh area. When not in use, the public is free to explore the rooms; there are also great city views from the windows on the 35th and 36th floors.

Sports & Entertainment

Pittsburgh has a stellar record of winning sports franchises and an impressive array of venues to show off their talents in. PPG Paints Arena is the home of the 5-time Stanley Cup Champion Pittsburgh Penguins of the National Hockey League; Heinz Field is where the 6-time Super Bowl Champion Pittsburgh Steelers of the National Football League play; and PNC Park is where the 5-time World Series Champion Pittsburgh Pirates of Major League Baseball hear the cry “Batter Up!” Even if ‘black and gold’ aren’t your colours, there’s plenty to cheer about and admire in this amazing “City of Champions!”


Philadelphia is Proof Positive that Every City Has A Silver Lining

January 24, 2013
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Prior to visiting Philadelphia in the fall of 2010, a friend of my sister’s had this to say:

“Why do you want to go to Philly?  It’s a dump!”

Not exactly a ringing endorsement for a city of incredible historical significance to the American people, and one that is equally proud of its rich sporting traditions, renowned cheese steak sandwiches, and refined arts community.

Undaunted by the less than favourable review, we decided to keep Philadelphia on our list of East Coast historical cities to see and made it our mission to discover the beauty within this Pennsylvania landmark.

Truth be told, the beauty was at first hard to find.

Approaching the city from the north where industrial plants are abundant, my sister and I looked at each other in a moment of utter defeat for Philadelphia did, in fact, look like a “dump!” Further, it appeared to be a veritable barren wasteland. Granted, it was a rainy, overcast day so the grey of the dimly lit sky was not helping matters, but we still couldn’t help but think we may have been a tad overly optimistic about uncovering any hidden pearls in the midst of this less than awe-inspiring scenery.

Such was our mindset as we exited left off of the interstate and headed for the inner city. With each passing mile, our spirits were buoyed and even though the rain was still pelting down with a vengeance, the city’s silver linings were nonetheless all around us shining in all their splendor.

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Feeling the LOVE in Philadelphia!

Here is a sampling of what we took in:

On the city’s south side, Wells Fargo Center, Lincoln Financial Field, Citizens Bank Park, and the iconic, still-standing at the time Philadelphia Spectrum formed the impressive cornerstones of the South Philadelphia Sports Complex.

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The Philly Fanatic is the well-known and much-loved mascot of the Philadelphia Phillies baseball team.

In the city’s core, the downtown skyline beckoned with the resplendent and expansive City Hall complex as its prime showpiece.  Another feast for the senses was the Reading Terminal Market, a large farmer’s market boasting everything from Amish specialties to more urban street fair.  The Market is definitely the place to grab a bite to eat, but be prepared to have a tough time choosing from the many diverse options.  Of course, you can’t go wrong with a classic cheese steak, whichever way you prefer it prepared!

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Until 1987, City Hall was Philadelphia’s tallest building.

Just east of downtown, despite being in the midst of a restoration at Independence Hall, the historical district glimmered as the clouds eventually cleared on day two of our visit and the sun cast a warm, welcome glow. There’s nothing like walking the grounds where the founding fathers toiled over the United States Constitution. And you can’t miss paying homage to the Liberty Bell or visiting the National Constitution Center.

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The Signer statue sits outside Independence Hall, where the U.S. Constitution originated.

To the north, sights along the picturesque, Champs Elysees-like feel of the Benjamin Franklin Parkway included Logan Square (where the famous LOVE statue is located),  the Franklin Institute, the Rodin Museum, and la creme de la creme, the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

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Yo, Adrian, now that I’m champ we should climb those stairs and go see the Museum of Art!

Yes, things may have initially looked very bleak from the outskirts of Philadelphia, but the ‘City of Brotherly Love’ opened its arms and we heartily soaked up what it had to offer.

Fast forward two years and the release of the new hit movie, Silver Linings Playbook. Based in Philadelphia, the film is more than just an exploration of recovering from mental illness, it is a celebration of a great city that does, indeed, have its fair share of silver linings.  Check it out and be your own judge!

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Independence Hall was the home away from home for America’s founding fathers.